Using different ingredients does not diminish the pleasure, but rather allows us to discover and enjoy this great spread again and again.

The Balkans are known as a region where the climate, soil and human skills are particularly well suited to growing delicious, sweet and tempting fruits, from which excellent wines, brandies, jams and juices are made. But what about vegetables? Is there anything in this category like the plums and grapes we wrote about in our previous texts?

Of course there is, and that is peppers. The climatic conditions in the southern parts of the Balkans, especially in southern Serbia and North Macedonia, with their many sunny days and fertile soil around the river valleys, are ideal for growing sweet red peppers as the main ingredient (or, according to some recipes, the only ingredient) of ajvar. This is the favorite spread of Balkan people and their guests, so every home must have a sufficient supply of homemade or store-bought ajvar, prepared in the traditional way, of course.

The origin of Ajvar

The word Ajvar comes from the Turkish expression “ havyar ” or from the Persian “ khâvyâr”, which referred to the salted fish roe, which we also know as caviar. At the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, sturgeons were fished in the Danube and Serbia was a well-known caviar producer. Even today, one hears the expression "red caviar" or "Serbian caviar" for ajvar, and more rarely, caviar is called "fish ajvar".

The recipe originated towards the end of Turkish rule in the Balkans as a way to preserve the delicious peppers for consumption during the winter months. Today, ajvar is much more than just a winter food. It is used all year round and on its own, as an appetizer or as an ingredient in cooking other dishes.

In Serbia, Leskovac ajvar is made exclusively from red peppers, while Macedonian ajvar also has eggplant added. This is the main difference between the two "ajvar schools" and always leads to a debate about whose ajvar is better. Most people in former Yugoslavia, Bulgaria and Albania still prefer their homemade ajvar made from grandma's recipe, which they undoubtedly consider the best.

The preparation of Ajvar

Leaving aside the question of whether eggplants belong in ajvar, the preparation is almost identical for all products. The basis is ripe peppers, harvested in late summer or early autumn. The varieties Kurtovska kapija, Makedonka, Moravska kapija, Slonovo uvo, Amfora, Crvena šilja and autochthonous varieties are particularly suitable. The peppers that are put in ajvar must be healthy, ripe, without dark spots, cracks or other damage - in short, they must be suitable for display in the Albertina.

The peppers are first washed thoroughly and then slowly baked on a Smederevac-type wood-burning oven. Grilling or cooking in metal pots directly over the fire is also possible, but it is more difficult to control the temperature. This method also brings out the fine smoked flavor, which remains discreetly in the ajvar until it is consumed. It is quicker and cheaper to use an electric or gas oven, but this greatly reduces the quality and magical taste.

After baking, when the skin of the peppers turns black and starts to peel, comes the most demanding part: peeling and removing the seeds. This is best done by hand and strict traditional producers insist that their ajvar does not contain any seeds or black pepper skin. Then comes the manual cutting of the peppers or grinding them with hand mills and machines, which are also passed down in families from generation to generation.

The next stage is to cook the peppers in large pans with oil, vinegar, salt and sometimes garlic and a little sugar. This process is also best done on a charcoal stove over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Adding a smaller amount of vegetable oil makes the ajvar lighter, fresher and more "bite", while more oil gives a more complex structure and a fuller flavour, more associated with caviar. A well-cooked ajvar contains no excess liquid and goes from a liquid state to an almost solid, homogeneous form.